Putting up your own UHF Freeview aerial is doable in an afternoon — if you can safely get to where it needs to go and you’re methodical about the cable. This is the same process we follow on paid installs, written so you can do it yourself. Where it tends to go wrong, we’ll say so.

Before anything: the safety call. Most aerials go on a roof, a gable or a high wall. If you are not genuinely confident working at height on your roof pitch — especially on a two-storey — stop here. It is not worth a fall. This is the one job where “get someone to do it” is the smart, not the lazy, choice. We fit an aerial on an existing mast from $229, or a full new install from $329, Auckland-wide. See what’s involved and the fixed prices.

What you’ll need

  • A 47-element UHF Yagi aerial (the standard for NZ Freeview). We keep these in stock for $89 and ship them anywhere in NZ — message us if you want one.
  • A mast or fascia/gable bracket to mount it (if you’re replacing an old aerial, you already have the mast)
  • RG6 coax cable, F-connectors, and a wall plate
  • A cordless drill, spanner/screwdriver, cable clips
  • A ladder you trust, and ideally a second person
  • Your TV (you’ll tune it at the end)

Step 1 — Point it the right way

A UHF Yagi is directional: it only works well aimed at the transmitter.

  • In Auckland, most homes point at the Waiatarua transmitter (west, in the Waitākere Ranges). Sky Tower carries some services too. Elsewhere in NZ, check the official Freeview coverage checker for your address and the nearest transmitter.
  • The easy cheat: look at the aerials on neighbouring houses that get good reception and copy the direction and height. If every aerial on your street points the same way, point yours there too.

Step 2 — Mount the aerial

  • Fix the bracket to a solid point — a fascia board, gable or existing mast. Higher and clear of obstructions is better, but don’t go so high you create a wind or safety problem.
  • Keep the aerial away from metal (spouting, flashings) and power lines.
  • Get it roughly level and pointed the way you worked out in Step 1. You’ll fine-tune the aim once the TV is scanning.

Step 3 — Run the cable (this is where most DIY jobs fail)

More reception problems come from the cable than the aerial itself, so take your time here.

  • Use proper RG6 coax and fit the F-connectors cleanly — no stray strands of shield touching the centre core (that kills the signal).
  • Weatherproof the outdoor connection. Water getting into a connector is the number-one cause of a picture that works for a month then starts dropping out. Use a weatherproof boot or self-amalgamating tape.
  • Clip the cable neatly, avoid tight kinks, and run it to a wall plate near the TV.

Step 4 — Tune the TV

  • Connect the coax to the TV aerial input.
  • In the TV menu, run Freeview tuning / auto scan / channel search (wording varies by brand).
  • The TV should find TVNZ 1 & 2, Three, Bravo and the rest. If it finds all of them cleanly, you’re basically done — go to Step 5 to lock in the best signal.

Step 5 — Fine-tune the aim

  • Most TVs have a signal strength / quality screen (often under the tuning or info menu). Watch it while a helper slowly rotates the aerial a few degrees each way.
  • Stop where quality is highest and steady — not just strong for a second. Tighten everything down at that point.

Troubleshooting bad reception

If it’s not perfect, work through these before blaming the aerial:

  • No channels at all: aerial pointed the wrong way, cable not connected, or a bad connector. Re-check Step 1 and Step 3.
  • Some channels missing / pixelating: usually aim or signal level. Nudge the aim (Step 5). Homes far from the transmitter or splitting to several TVs may need a masthead amplifier.
  • Works then drops out later: almost always water in a connector or a corroded old cable. Re-do the outdoor connection.
  • Fuzzy on an old setup you didn’t replace: the existing cable, wall plate or splitter may be past it.

Still stuck after all that? That’s the honest signal to stop guessing. Chasing it by swapping random parts costs more than a proper diagnosis. We’ll find the actual fault — aerial, cable, connector or amplifier — and tell you what it needs, from $99. Book a fault check.

When it’s smarter to just get it fitted

DIY makes sense on a single-storey with easy roof access and a straightforward run. Call a pro if:

  • It’s a two-storey or steep roof and you’re not confident at height
  • You’ve aimed and re-cabled and still can’t get a clean signal
  • The existing setup is corroded or a mess and needs redoing properly

We do Auckland aerial work every week: replacement from $229, new install from $329, fault diagnosis from $99 — fixed price, quoted before we start, no separate call-out fee. See the full breakdown or get a fixed quote.

Either way — whether you do it yourself with this guide or get us to finish it — you’ll end up with every Freeview channel coming in clean.